I told my partner about how my mother and I would joke about relationships and romance, and how she would tell me that I would know that a boy loved me if he got me “a whole fish.” I don’t even know where that came from, but as I thought about it more, I began to reflect on past relationships…and their lack of whole fishes. And it all just became even more funny.

Gabriela Cámara’s Contramar was one of the places I was eager to check out on our recent trip to Mexico City. The vibrant seafood restaurant in the hip Roma neighborhood has been much-buzzed about for years and has consistently been a shining star in the CDMX dining scene (and the ‘gram). Popular dishes include their famed tuna tostadas; light and crisp tostada chips with super fresh tuna, refreshing avocado, and a sneaky layer or luxurious house-made sauce underneath. Heartier dishes such as their braised pulpo (officially the first octopus dish that got my formerly octopus-hating partner to give this protein a second glance) and their namesake pescado contramar — a whole expertly-grilled snapper slathered in distinct red and green sauces are also among crowd favorites.

Don’t let the white linens and formally-dressed wait staff fool you. While Contramar showcases impeccable service and presentation, the pristine restaurant has a lot of heart and feels very much like a neighborhood hub instead of a bougie wallet-sucker or tourist trap. If you want to maximize your people-watching vibes, snag one of the tables lining the sidewalk. The tourist-to-local ratio is pretty good which means you’re in that sweet spot of legit Mexican seafood and the benefit of staff that understands a fair amount of English (and French from what I’ve overheard a few tables over). Prices are a little higher than the average neighborhood joint in CDMX, but considering the high level of service and quality of their ingredients, it’s worth the splurge.

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Contramar is located at Calle Durango 200, Cuauhtemoc, Roma, Mexico City. Link: http://www.contramar.com.mx/ (Reservations are strongly recommended).